A Tip A Day - Updated Daily

[bad boy]

17 July 2008

Use the Administrator Account

When I installed Windows, I had to choose an Administrator password and then create a separate user account for myself. Can I delete the superfluous account and simply use the Administrator account as my primary login?

You can, but only in Windows XP Professional and Media Center Edition. (Note: in MCE, the Administrator account is named "Media Center" by default.) In Windows XP Home, the Administrator account is restricted and can be used only when you start your PC in Safe Mode.

To log in as the Administrator, go to Start --> Log Off, and click the Log Off button. Once you see the Welcome screen, press Ctrl-Alt-Del twice to show the old-fashioned "Log On to Windows" dialog box. Type Administrator for the username, enter the Administrator password below, and click OK.

Once you've logged on as the Administrator, you can delete the superfluous user account from the User Accounts control panel. Of course, you'll lose all the settings from that account, so it may not be worth it if you've been using the account for some time.

To show the Administrator account on the Welcome screen, open the Registry Editor (go to Start --> Run and type regedit ), navigate to
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\WindowsNT\Cu rrentVersion\
Winlogon\SpecialAccounts\UserList , select Edit --> New --> DWORD Value, and type Administrator for the name of the new value. Double-click the new Administrator value in the right pane and type 1 in the "Value data" field. When you're done, close the Registry Editor and
restart Windows for the change to take effect.

Note: Don't know the Administrator password? Provided you're logged in as a user with administrator privileges (not the same as the Administrator account), you can choose a new password for the Administrator account in the alternate User Accounts window (go to Start --> Run and type control userpasswords2 ). Just highlight any user in the list other than Administrator, and then click the Reset Password button .
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[bad boy]

18 July 2008

Troubleshoot Your Dialer

Whether you use a router, XP's own Point-to-Point over Ethernet (PPPoE) dialer, or your ISP's dialing software to connect, the way your dialer behaves when you try to connect should tell you what's wrong. If it tells you that your login is incorrect, either your username or your password is wrong. The most common mistake involves the username, which often resembles an email address (e.g., username@myisp.net ) instead of just a bare name. Check your documentation for details, or call your ISP to have them reset your password.

If you have to wait a long time before the dialer gives you any error at all, your IP settings may be incorrect. If, on the other hand, you get an error right away, it's probably a configuration problem with your dialer software, such as the wrong network adapter selected.

If your dialer indicates that there was no response from the server (or something similar), it usually means your service is down. Check your cables, and contact your ISP for status.

Does your broadband connection require special dialer software? Otherwise, you likely have an always-on connection, one that uses either a dynamic (randomly assigned) IP address or a static (always the same) IP address. In this case, refer to the paperwork that came with your broadband connection, and change Windows's TCP/IP settings accordingly.

Specifically, choose the "Obtain an IP address automatically" option if you're using a dynamic address, or the "Use the following IP address" option for a static address.

[bad boy]

19 July 2008

Get Rid of Third-Party Dialers

My ISP gave me this CD when I signed up for Internet service. Not knowing any better, I installed it, and now my PC is littered with ads and junk software. Do I need any of this stuff?

In most cases, the software that comes with broadband service is unnecessary, providing little more than branded web software and links to your ISP's various marketing partners. The exception is the "dialer" program required by certain types of broadband connections, which is used to send your username and password to your ISP in order to connect to the Internet. Such software is typically flaky and the cause of all sorts of Internet connection problems. Fortunately, you can usually dump your ISP's proprietary software in favor of either Windows XP's built-in dialer or the auto-connect capabilities of a router.

Note: There are a few exceptions. If you're using a USB modem, such as the SpeedTouch 330, it may require special drivers in order to work. If you have one of these, you may be better off replacing it with a combination modem and wireless router, such as the SpeedTouch 580, than trying to get it to work with anything other than the software that comes with it. Another exception is a wholly proprietary Internet connection provider such as AOL, which isn't compatible with anything other than the provided connection software .

First, remove the superfluous software provided by your ISP: in the Add or Remove Programs control panel, highlight your ISP's software, and click the Remove button. If your ISP installed more than one software package, you may have to uninstall several entries from this list.

The best alternative to a software-based dialer is a wireless router, which will dial your connection automatically, keep you online all the time, protect your PC with its built-in firewall, and even provide wireless access to boot.

Although routers are hard to beat, you can use Windows's built-in PPPoE dialer to connect to the Internet without any added hardware. Open the Network Connections control panel and click the "Set up a home or small office network" link on the left (or double-click the Network Connection
Wizard icon). Answer the questions as follows:

1. Click the Next button to skip the introductory page, choose the "Connect to the Internet" option, and then click Next again.

2. Choose the "Set up my connection manually" option, and click Next.

3. Choose the "Connect using a broadband connection that requires a user name and password" option, and click Next.

4. Type a name for this connection, and click Next. A good choice is the name of your ISP, or just "DSL" or "cable."

5. Enter your username and password (see Figure), choose the desired options underneath (if you're not sure, turn them all on), and click Next.

6. Click the Finish button to complete the wizard.


To initiate the connection, double-click the icon you just created in the Network Connections folder. If you elected to create a desktop shortcut in the wizard, you can also double-click the new desktop icon. By default, a Connect dialog will appear, at which point you can click the Connect button to dial and connect your PC to the Internet.

Normally, you'll have to dial this connection before you can go online. To have Windows connect automatically, first right-click the connection icon and select "Set as Default Connection." Next, open the Internet Options control panel, choose the Connections tab, and select the "Always dial my default connection" option.

To skip the Connect dialog, right-click the new connection and select Properties (or click the Properties button in the Connect dialog box). Choose the Options tab, and remove the checkmark next to the "Prompt for name and password, certificate, etc." option. This is particularly useful if you want Windows to connect automatically when you first start your computer; just drag the PPPoE connection icon from the Network Connections folder into your Startup folder in your Start menu.

[bad boy]

20 July 2008

Share an Internet Connection

I have three PCs in my house, but only one Internet connection. How can I access the Web from all three PCs at the same time?

There are several approaches, but the best solution is to use a router (preferably one with wireless support). Essentially, you take the cable that goes from your modem to your PC, unplug it from your PC, and plug it into the back of the router. Then you connect all your PCs to your router, either wirelessly or with cables, and then configure your router.

The router also protects the PCs on your network with its built-in firewall, a must-have in an era of viruses, spyware, and bored teenage hackers.
The alternative to a router, useful only if you need a quick-and-dirty solution or can't use a router for some reason, is to use Windows XP's built-in Internet Connection Sharing (ICS) feature. The trick, basically, is to connect one PC (called the "host") simultaneously to the Net and to your local network. Then you set up your other PCs to piggyback, so to speak, on the host PC's Internet connection. Since the host PC needs two network cards, (one for the local network and one for connecting to the Internet), this approach likely won't save you any money or time, for
that matter over using an inexpensive router.

To set up ICS on the host PC, open the Network Connections control panel and select View --> Details. You should have at least two connections listed: one for your Internet connection and one for your workgroup. If not, your network is not ready.

Find your connection for the Internet. In most cases, this connection will be the network adapter connected to your DSL or cable modem. (For connections that require a username and password, use the PPPoE broadband connection you) Right-click the connection icon, select Properties, and choose the Advanced tab. Check the "Allow other network users to connect through this computer's Internet connection" box, and click OK. Back in the Network Connections folder, it should now say "Enabled, Shared" in the Type column.

The next step is to configure each of the other computers on your network to use the shared connection. On each of the other "client" PCs, open the Network Connections control panel, right-click the connection icon corresponding to the network adapter plugged into your workgroup, and select Properties. Choose the General tab, highlight the "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)" entry in the list, and click the Properties button. In most cases, you'll want to select the "Obtain an IP address automatically" option. If, however, you need static IP addresses, choose the "Use the following IP address" option, and fill out the fields. For the "Default gateway," type the IP address of the PC hosting the shared Internet connection.

That's it! Test your connection on each PC by loading a web page. Of course, for this to work, the host computer must be turned on and connected to the Internet a requirement that makes the router a much better choice for the long haul.

[bad boy]

21 July 2008

Make Peer-to-Peer File Sharing Work

My peer-to-peer (P2P) file-sharing program stopped working when I installed Service Pack 2. Is Microsoft trying to put an end to P2P, or can I fix this?

Most large companies would like to see P2P disappear, mostly because nobody has found a respectable way to make money off it. But the problem you're experiencing is almost certainly caused by the new Windows Firewall software built into SP2, which is blocking your file sharing program from establishing a connection to its server.

Note: Microsoft frequently releases updates and bug fixes for its firewall. If you decide to use the Windows Firewall, make sure you download all available updates using the Windows Update feature .

A firewall is a layer of protection that permits or denies network communication based on a predefined set of rules. These rules restrict communication so that only certain applications are permitted to use your network connection. This effectively closes back doors to your computer that viruses, hackers, and other malicious parties or applications might otherwise exploit. The Windows Firewall replaces the nearly worthless Internet Connection Firewall (ICF) found in earlier versions of Windows XP. While it's better than its predecessor, it also acts more aggressively and closes more back doors by default.


Note: If you're using a router with a built-in firewall and you don't need to protect your PC from the other computers in your local network, you can safely turn off the Windows Firewall for good .

To see if the Windows Firewall is to blame, disable it temporarily. Open the Security Center control panel, click Windows Firewall, select the "Off (not recommended)" option, and click OK.

If your P2P software now works, the firewall software is clearly the culprit. (If it still doesn't work, the problem lies elsewhere; consult your P2P software documentation for details.) Go ahead and return to the Windows Firewall window, and select the "On (recommended)" option to re-enable it. Next, choose the Exceptions tab, click the Add Program button, and find your P2P application in the list (if you don't see it, click Browse to locate the .exe file on your hard disk). Highlight the program and click OK in both boxes. The Windows firewall should now let your P2P program do its thing without interference the change will take effect immediately. (If you're using a third-party firewall program, check the software's documentation for help creating exceptions.)

If creating this exception doesn't work, return to the Exceptions tab of the Windows Firewall window and create another exception. This time, instead of basing the exception on the program filename, configure the firewall to allow all communication over the port used by your software.
Click the Add Port button, type a name for the exception (for example, P2P ), and type the port number (e.g., 6699 ). If you don't know the port number used by your P2P software, consult the software documentation. Click OK in both boxes, and give it a whirl.

[bad boy]

22 July 2008

Set Up a Wireless Network

I can't get my wireless network off the ground. I want to use the Internet, share files, and so on, but none of it seems to work. I thought this was going to be easy!


Wireless networking is easy! (Unless it's not.)

Wireless networking can be extremely convenient when it works but an absolute headache when it doesn't. The good news is that if you take the time to set up your router correctly, update your firmware, and install Service Pack 2, most wireless problems will disappear.

Note: If you don't have Service Pack 2 yet, use the Windows Update feature now to get it (open Internet Explorer and select Tools --> Windows Update).

A router lets you connect your PC (or all the PCs in your workgroup) to the Internet, as well as connect multiple PCs to each other. Routers also include built-in firewalls, offering much better protection than software-based firewalls such as the Windows Firewall built into Service Pack 2.

But most importantly, a wireless router acts as an access point, a central hub to which all wireless devices in your home or office can connect. To set up a wireless network, you'll need a wireless router (preferably one that supports the 802.11g standard), and at least one PC with a wireless network adapter.

Connect your PC directly to your wireless router with a cable; that's right, a cable! You'll need to communicate with your router to set it up properly for wireless access something you won't be able to do wirelessly throughout the whole process. Connect one end of a category-5 patch cable to your PC's Ethernet port, and the other end to one of the numbered LAN ports on the back of the router. Then plug in the router's power cable.

Your router probably came with setup software on a CD; in most cases, you don't need this and can use the router's more flexible web-based setup instead. Open a web browser on your PC, and type the router's IP address (usually 192.168.1.1 , but check the router's manual) into the address bar. The router's built-in web server should show you a setup page like the one in Figure.

If you can't connect to your router, your computer is probably not on the same subnet as the router. The first three numbers of your computer's IP address must match the first three numbers of your router's IP address, but the fourth number must be different. For instance, if your router's address is 192.168.0.1, you may not be able to connect to it until you manually change your PC's address to 192.168.0.xxx, where xxx is any number between 2 and 255. If all else fails, reset the router, following the instructions in the documentation, and try again.

On the setup page, choose your Internet connection type from the list. If your Internet connection requires a username and password, select PPPoE. If your ISP has provided an IP address for your connection, select Static IP. Otherwise, choose Automatic Configuration -DHCP. (Naturally, the options for your router may be slightly different.)

Click the Apply or Save Settings button at the bottom of the page when you're done. Within a few seconds, you should have Internet access; go ahead and test it by opening a second browser window (press Ctrl-N) and visiting any web site.

Note: If you select PPPoE, the router should prompt you for a login. Type the username and password for your broadband connection, not your login for Windows, your email account, or anything else. If you choose Static IP, enter the IP addresses of your ISP's DNS servers. Your ISP should provide this information to you .

Once your Internet connection is working, visit the router manufacturer's web site and download any available firmware updates. (You can usually find your router's current firmware version on the Status page in the router's web-based setup.) Firmware updates include essential bug fixes,
performance enhancements, security patches, and occasionally new features. Consult your router's documentation for firmware update instructions.

Next, go to your router's wireless setup page (see Figure): this is either a link in the main menu or a tab across the top of the page. Choose a new SSID (the name for your wireless network), and turn off the Wireless SSID Broadcast option to keep your wireless network private Click the Apply or Save Settings button at the bottom of the page when you're done.

Note: If you're using a Wireless-G router (a faster sibling of the 802.11b standard, capable of 54 Mbps), avoid the temptation to select the "G only" option on the wireless setup page. This feature prevents slower Wireless-B devices from joining your WiFi networka fact you'll likely have forgotten when a visiting relative tries to connect to your home network to check her email a few months from now .

You should also enable encryption for the best wireless security. This setting will be accessible either through a button on the current page, or on a separate tab entitled WEP, WPA, Encryption, or simply Wireless Security, like the one in Figure. WEP, the Wireless Encryption Protocol,
prevents anyone without your secret WEP key from connecting to or spying on your wireless network. Some routers also support WPA, or WiFi Protected Access, which provides a slightly higher level of security.

On your router's encryption page, enable WEP, and then choose the highest WEP encryption level supported by your router (in this example, 128-bit). Higher levels provide better protection, but also mean longer (and harder to type) WEP keys.

Some routers have you choose a passphrase , which is a word your router uses to generate the WEP keys. In the example shown in Figure, I typed the word "annoyances" and clicked the Generate button to create four 26-digit WEP keys (the first one, Key 1, is the only one that is used). Generally, all of the computers on your wireless network will have to use the same key.

The Evils of SSID Broadcast

Your SSID is the back door into your wireless network. If you broadcast your SSID, anyone with an SSID sniffer will be able to find it in a matter of seconds, connect to your network, and use your Internet connection (or even snoop around your shared folders).

The same danger exists if you continue to use your router's default SSID; probably a million people around the globe are using "link-sys," which makes it a good guess for anyone trying to gain access to your network. Choose an SSID like you'd choose a password, and your wireless network will stand a better chance of remaining private.

The only time you'll likely want to enable SSID broadcast, other than for testing purposes, is if you're setting up a public WiFi access point, say in a coffee shop or bed and breakfast, and you want to make it easy for your patrons to connect.

[bad boy]

23 July 2008

Connect to a Wireless Network

I think I set up my wireless router correctly, but my PC doesn't see it.

You probably turned off your router's SSID broadcast feature. While this means that strangers using WiFi sniffers (described below) won't "discover" your network, it also means that your network won't show up when you scan for it, either.

To test this, open the Network Connections control panel and double-click your unconnected wireless connection to open the "Choose a wireless network" dialog box shown in Figure.

(You can also right-click the wireless connection icon in your System Tray or in the Network Connections window and select View Available Wireless Networks.) This window, Windows XP's built-in "sniffer," scans for WiFi access points within range and displays the results, typically in less than five seconds.

To connect to any visible network in the list, highlight it and click the Connect button. If your wireless network doesn't show up, simply click the "Set up a wireless network for a home or small office" link on the left to start the Wireless Network Setup Wizard (also accessible directly in the
My Network Places folder). Click the Next button on the first page. On the "Create a name for your wireless network" screen, type your wireless network's SSID in the "Network name (SSID)" field (see Figure). If you've enabled WEP or WPA encryption for your router, select the "Manually assign a network key" option. If you selected WPA encryption in your router's setup, place a checkmark by the "Use WPA encryption" option; otherwise, for WEP, leave it unchecked. Then click Next.

On the next page, turn off the "Hide characters as I type" option to make the text fields here easier to deal with. Now, if you've saved your WEP key from the router setup page, you can open the file, highlight the key, press Ctrl-C to copy the text, and then click in the " Network key" field and press Ctrl-V to paste in the text. Otherwise, you'll have
to type in the key from your router setup page manually. Unless you feel like typing this long key twice, just copy and paste it into the second field, and then click the Next button.

Finally, the wizard gives you the opportunity to save your settings to a USB flash drive, theoretically making subsequent setups easier (why no option exists to save settings to a CD writer, floppy drive, or simply a file on your desktop is a mystery). If you don't have a USB flash drive handy, or if you don't need to set up any more computers, choose the "Set up a network manually" option. Click Next and then Finish when you're done.

From now on, your wireless network will show up in the "Choose a wireless network" list on this PC (as long as it's in range), even if you've chosen not to broadcast your SSID. You probably won't see it right away, though; just wait a few seconds and then click the "Refresh network list" link on the left. Your network should appear at the top of the list, proudly signifying that it has established a connection. You can now open a web browser and test your new wireless connection.

If you don't see the network, you either mistyped the SSID, or your wireless router isn't properly set up. If the network shows up but Windows can't connect, you likely mistyped the encryption key. If, after repeated attempts, you can't connect, disable encryption in your router and try
again. You can usually fix such problems by updating the firmware in your router, as well as the firmware and drivers for the wireless card in your PC.

The Ethics of WiFi

Thanks to Windows XP's built-in WiFi sniffer, it's easy to detect and connect to any unsecured wireless network including the network of an unsuspecting neighbor, which raises the thorny issue of ethics.

There are countless personal wireless networks around the globe, and most of them, you'll find, are unsecured. This means that if you walk down the street in a populated area, you'll probably find a working wireless Internet connection before you reach the end of the block. Some will have been left open intentionally, but most will be unsecured merely because their owners don't have the benefit of the advice.

Now, just because you can connect to these networks, does it mean you should? Are you taking advantage of someone else's ignorance by breaking into their private network, or are you simply making use of a public resource that you'd be equally eager to share?

I'm not about to try to solve this dilemma in these short posts; I only wish to raise the question, and to suggest that if you do ever decide to utilize someone else's wireless network, you make sure to do no harm. Think about your impact, both on the bandwidth of the foreign network and the privacy of those who operate it. And then tread lightly.

[bad boy]

24 July 2008

Surf Safely at the Coffee Shop

I like to sit at my local coffee shop with my wireless laptop, sip a double decaf soy latte, and read my email. Is this safe?

Good question, and not one that occurs to a lot of people. Soy lattes can be risky if you don't take proper precautions.

Now, when you connect to the WiFi hotspot at the coffee shop (or on some random street corner downtown), you're connecting to a public, unsecured workgroup. This may not seem like a problem until you consider the other PCs that also may be connected, any of which may share a virus or two with you, or merely serve as a conduit for an intruder hacking into your system.

To improve your security, first turn off any and all shared folders. And if you haven't done so already, set up a password for your user account. This will go a long way toward protecting your data from casual intrusions, but you shouldn't stop there. To be on the safe side, enable the Windows Firewall or install more competent third-party firewall software, such as ZoneAlarm Pro. The best solutions allow you to easily switch between a relaxed state, permitting all your programs to work while you're safely behind your router's firewall at home, and a heightened state of security when you're on the road.

Of course, mind what you do on the Net while you're at that coffee shop, too. As long as you're using someone else's network, nothing you do should be considered private. Although secure SSL-protected web sites do provide better privacy than insecure sites, you're probably better off visiting financial web sites only when you're at home.

[bad boy]

25 July 2008

Increase Range and Improve Reception

My laptop connects to the Internet without any problem as long as I'm in the same room as my wireless router. But once I change rooms or move too far away from my router, the connection drops in and out. What's the deal?


Interference is the name of the game. The tiny WiFi transceiver in your PC should be capable of picking up any wireless network within about 300 feet under ideal conditions namely, outdoors with a clear line of sight.

Indoors, the range can be quite a bit lower; typically, the signal won't go through more than two or three walls, and perhaps one floor or ceiling.

Drive-by Sniffing

Every WiFi-equipped PC is capable of WiFi sniffing: scanning the area immediately surrounding it and listing any hotspots (wireless network access points) it finds. Of course, only those networks that are broadcasting their SSIDs will show up, which is why you'll probably want to turn off SSID broadcast on your own router.

The "Choose a wireless network" dialog box is Windows XP's built-in WiFi sniffer, and it is particularly handy when you're trying to find an Internet connection away from home. Whether you're in a coffee shop, in a hotel, or just driving through some residential neighborhood, you can use the sniffer to list any available WiFi networks within range. The closest networks (or rather, the ones with the strongest signals) are listed first, followed by the weaker, more distant hotspots.

A yellow padlock icon indicates secure hotspots wireless networks requiring WEP or WPA security keys so highlight the unsecured network with the strongest signal, and click the Connect button.

With any luck, Windows should connect to the network in 10-15 seconds, and you should be able to start surfing normally soon thereafter.

Note: Like to stay mobile? Keep an eye on your wireless reception with the free Wireless Strength widget (Kapsules. Simply Widgets. ), a graphical signal strength meter that sits on your desktop. (This tool requires the Kapsules scripting engine, freely available from Kapsules. Simply Widgets. .)

The placement of your wireless router and the arrangement of nearby obstacles will have a significant effect on the strength and range of your WiFi signal. Of course, your router will need to be within spitting distance of your DSL or cable modem, but with a sufficiently long cable, you
should have some leeway with the router's placement. Use the signal strength indicator in the "Choose a wireless network" window (right-click the wireless connection icon in the System Tray or Network Connections window and choose View Available Wireless Networks) to test various
configurations.

Place your wireless router out in the open; don't put it under your desk, in a drawer, or behind a metal file cabinet. If you're
feeding several PCs, place your router in a central location. Consider cabling any stationary computers to optimize the placement of the router for your portable (wireless) ones .

Now, other technology in your home or office may also interfere with your wireless network, limiting its range, speed, and reliability. Both the popular 802.11b and newer 802.11g standards operate over the 2.4-GHz band, which is also inhabited by many cordless phones and all microwave ovens. (The black sheep of the family, 802.11a, solves this problem by using the 5-GHz band, but its short range and limited compatibility make it an unpopular choice.) This means that you'll get better results if you move the router away from any cordless phone base stations, televisions, radios, security systems, or TV dinners. (Better yet, replace your aging 2.4-GHz portable phone with a WiFi-friendly 5.8-GHz cordless phone.)

If, after adjusting the placement of your router, you still need more range, consider either a repeater (range extender) or an after market antenna (provided your router has an antenna port to accommodate one). If you need a lot more distance (possibly at the expense of some
versatility)and you fancy yourself a tinkerera Pringles "cantenna"
(Antenna on the Cheap (er, Chip) - O'Reilly Emerging Telephony ) can extend your wireless range by a mile or more!

[bad boy]

26 July 2008

Turn Off "Not Connected" Messages

Every time I turn on my PC, a little yellow balloon pops up in the lower-right corner of my screen and says that my network cable is unplugged. I'm not using a network cable at all, and my wireless connection works fine. Does this error mean anything?

Not really. It's kind of like the flight attendant who wakes you up during a long flight to ask if you want a pillow (no offense intended to flight attendants… or pillows).

Windows XP is designed to notify you whenever one of your network connections isn't connected, even when another connection is working fine. Common sense would tell you to open the Network Connections control panel, right-click the connection in question, choose Properties, and uncheck the "Notify me when this connection has limited or no connectivity" box. However, this seemingly apt option has no effect on this error.

Unfortunately, the only way to permanently do away with this useless message is to disable the offending connection entirely. Open the Network Connections control panel, right-click the connection, and select Disable. You'll notice that both the message and the icon in your Tray disappear, never to be seen again (unless you re-enable the connection).